Japan 2026: the plan

4 pax · Oct 6–21 · one spine, three branches. Tokyo → Labyrinth → Yakushima → Kyushu → Seto Inland Sea → Kansai → Tokyo.

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Leg
Arrive + Tokyo
Labyrinth
Yakushima
Kyushu
Seto Inland Sea
Kansai / Tokyo
Out
Where we sleep
in the air
1TokyoGraphy Shibuya
2LabyrinthSekigahara
3YakushimaJomon Sugi + moss forest
4Kagoshima
6Fukuoka
7Okayama Ise
9Kyoto Tokyo
10Tokyo
10Tokyo
still here
The day
long-haul3 routes
arrivalsall three
Gear shops0Jimbocho
0static
bus10:00
0on site
12 htransit
Jomon Sugi9–10 h22 km
Shiratani4–5 hmoss
Sakurajima3 hferry out
Kumamoto2 hops50+40
Fukuokaor Hiroshima1 h 45evening
Naoshima2 ferriesUno ×2
1 hJonas 3 h
2 h 20Jonas: 0
07:50two fly out
JonasJStockholm · 7–21 Oct
13:5007:50
EriErvia Seoul · 7–21 Oct
21:0020:45
EvaEvvia London · 7–24 Oct
10:55› 24th
NathanaelN5 Oct – 2 Nov
› 2 Nov
Tokyo Festival Yakushima Kyushu / Seto / Kansai Transit Eri, at Ise Jonas, in Tokyo Still here after the 22nd
8 bases
14 nights
3 branches
2 hike days
12 h longest travel day
1 night in Kyoto
13 days all four overlap

Day by day

Named flights and tours are booked. Oct 15 onward is decided, not booked.

DateMoveSleepWhat
6 OctTue Jonas AY812 Stockholm → Helsinki 20:55 · Eva BA429/BA5 Amsterdam → London → Tokyo · Eri KE926 Amsterdam → Seoul In the air Nathanael in Japan since Oct 5.
7 OctWed Eva 10:55 Haneda · Jonas 13:50 Haneda (AY61) · Eri 21:00 Narita Tokyo Check in Hotel Graphy Shibuya 15:00. No plans.
8 OctThu Metro / on foot Tokyo Gear shopping from 14:00 in Jimbocho / Ogawamachi — a street of outdoor shops, better than Shinjuku for mountain kit. Yakushima needs a real shell, not a poncho.
9 OctFri Metro / on foot Tokyo Pack for the festival, confirm tent rental. Mitsuki at night, optional.
10 OctSat Labyrinth bus, Shibuya Kast 10:00 → Minakami Lodge Sekigahara AnchorLabyrinth day 1. Lodge check-in 14:00.
11 OctSun On site Lodge Sekigahara AnchorLabyrinth day 2. Onsen shuttle 09:30 and 13:00.
12 OctMon 06:51 Jomo-Kogen → 10:15 Haneda · NH625 Haneda → Kagoshima 13:45 · NH4337 → Yakushima 17:45 Yakushima TransitTwelve hours door to door. Ship the festival gear from Minakami. Kagoshima–Yakushima is a small prop plane, the first thing weather cancels.
13 OctTue Local bus Yakushima Big hikeArakawa trailhead → Jomon Sugi, ~22 km, 9–10 h. Private cars banned on the Arakawa road through November, so it is the ~04:00 shuttle. Buy the ticket the day before, on the island.
14 OctWed Local bus Yakushima Shiratani Unsuikyo, the moss forest, 4–5 h. Easier option: Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, a shore rock pool that surfaces ~2 h either side of low tide — check the tide table. Also the weather buffer, so keep it soft.
15 OctThu Ferry Yakushima → Kagoshima 10:00–13:00 (~€75 pp) Kagoshima Ferry over is 15 min, runs constantly. Island View loop bus does the viewpoints in about an hour, Yunohira included, then the free 100 m foot onsen at Nagisa Park. No climbing — the craters are a permanent exclusion zone. If ash is blowing your way, stay on the mainland: Sengan-en frames the volcano from the garden side. Tenmonkan for food either way.
16 OctFri Kagoshima → Kumamoto ~50 min (~€40 pp), then Kumamoto → Hakata, 40 min Fukuoka Midday in Kumamoto to meet Eri's parents, then Fukuoka for the night. The castle is ten minutes from the station — keep reopened 2021, parts of the grounds still under repair.
17 OctSat Fukuoka all day · evening train on to Okayama, ~1 h 45 Okayama
Eri: Ise
Pick oneFull day in Fukuoka; Dazaifu Tenmangu, 30 min out, is the best of it. Or trade the afternoon for Hiroshima and Itsukushima on the way east: leave around 13:00, Miyajima mid-afternoon, Okayama by 18:30. Eri splits off for Ise either way — Fukuoka → Nagoya by air is ~1 h 10 against 3 h 20 on the Hakata–Nagoya shinkansen, then a Kintetsu limited express in, ~1 h 30. The bay boat from Centrair to Tsu skips Nagoya altogether if the timetable lines up.
18 OctSun Okayama → Uno → ferry to Naoshima, same way back Okayama
Eri: Ise
Art islandWithout Eri, who is at Ise Jingu. Chichu is timed-entry and sells out — reserve now. Bikes at Miyanoura to get round the island. Closed Mondays, so Sunday, and busy. Watch the last ferry back to Uno.
19 OctMon Most of you: Okayama → Kyoto, ~1 h · Jonas: Okayama → Tokyo, ~3 h 15 Kyoto
Jonas: Tokyo
SplitsJonas trades Kyoto for two unhurried Tokyo days. Everyone else goes early — nothing left in Okayama, and with one night here the afternoon is Kyoto. Fushimi Inari is open all night and empty after dark. Eri comes in from Ise as Jonas heads up — Kintetsu runs a direct limited express to Kyoto, ~2 h, so she has the shrine in the morning and Kyoto by afternoon.
20 OctTue Kyoto → Tokyo, ~2 h 20 · Jonas stays put Tokyo
Jonas: Haneda side
Back togetherKyoto in the morning — one temple, not four — then the Nozomi east. All four in the same city again for the last night. Reserve the seats. Jonas moves out to the Haneda side in the evening; the rest can stay central.
21 OctWed Jonas 04:30 to the airport, AY5072 Haneda → Helsinki 07:50 · Eri Tokyo → Narita for 20:45 Out04:30 means a taxi, nothing runs that early; ten minutes from a Haneda-side hotel. Narita is about an hour from central Tokyo now, so Eri has the whole day. Eva and Nathanael stay on in Tokyo.
22 OctThu Japan Eva stays to Oct 24 (AY62, 21:50). Nathanael until Nov 2.

Book these now

Nine unbooked nights from Oct 15, seven weeks out, in October.

Do first
Kyoto, 1 night (19)Everyone except Jonas. October is the run-up to foliage season and Kyoto fills early. One night, so pick for the evening and the morning train out — Gion, or near the station.
Do first
Yakushima, 3 nights (12–14)Small island, few beds. Needs 04:00 breakfast and a packed lunch for the Jomon Sugi day. Half-board is the norm and fish by default — flag vegetarian when booking, not on arrival.
Do first
Chichu Art Museum, 18 OctTimed online reservation only, and Sunday is Naoshima's busiest day.
Soon
Kagoshima 15th, Fukuoka 16th, Okayama 17th–18th, Tokyo 19th–20thBusiness hotels, easier — but the 17th and 18th are Saturday and Sunday, and Okayama is three beds, not four. Jonas needs both Tokyo nights, the second Haneda-side; the other three need the 20th in Tokyo, and Eva and Nathanael the 21st on.
Soon
Ise, 2 nights (17–18)Eri only, so a single. The ryokan and minshuku around Naiku and Futami are a small pool and the shrine draws weekend crowds — the 17th is a Saturday.
Soon
Reserve three trainsHakata–Okayama on the evening of the 17th, Jonas’ Okayama–Tokyo on the 19th, and Kyoto–Tokyo on the 20th. Short Kyushu hops at the machine.
On the day
Arakawa shuttle ticketOn Yakushima the day before the hike, not online. Easy to forget until 04:00 on the 13th.

The route on a map

Money

Per person. International flights not included.

In-Japan total ≈ €2,300 per person
Booked & paid€636 Still to come€1,670
€2,300 per person
€9,200 group of 4
€154 per person per day
Already booked and paidpp
Tokyo, Oct 7–10 ¥82,044€111
Labyrinth tickets ¥113,940€155
Labyrinth bus ¥40,000€54
Lodge Sekigahara ¥72,000€98
Haneda → Yakushima flights ¥161,080€218
Booked so far€636
Still to come, estimatepp
Food & drink ~14 days€560
Lodging 9 nights, twin-share€440
Trains & ferries Yakushima onward€450
Entries Naoshima, one Kyoto temple€120
Buffer€100
Still to come€1,670

Booked figures come from the expenses sheet; the rest will move.

Practical

Annoying to discover late.

Ship the festival gear. Takkyubin from Minakami on the 12th to the Tokyo hotel for the 20th — all four are back there that night — or to Eri's. Four days of planes and ferries follow, and a tent has no business on the Jomon Sugi trail.
Rail pass — look again. Kyoto → Tokyo pushes the 16th–20th to roughly ¥61,000 of shinkansen per person, against ¥50,000 for a 7-day national pass, so it now pays for everyone but Jonas — he skips Kyoto and stays under. The pass still excludes Nozomi and Mizuho: Hikari and Sakura instead, maybe 30 min slower on the Tokaido run. Regional Kyushu / Sanyo passes worth a check.
Vegetarian, in practice. Dashi (bonito stock) is in most broths, miso soup, simmered vegetables and many dipping sauces, so plant-looking food often is not. Tokyo has range, and Jonas has five nights there. Yakushima and Kyushu are the thin part: Fukuoka is a pork town, the yatai a write-off, and the Jomon Sugi day needs food carried in.
Cash on Yakushima. Cards work everywhere else. 7-Eleven ATMs take foreign cards; mobile Suica in Apple Wallet handles transit.
Split Jonas' two Tokyo nights. Anywhere on the 19th, Kamata or a Haneda hotel on the 20th — ten minutes from the terminal. The other three arrive that afternoon and can stay central.

Fixed anchors: Labyrinth Oct 10–12 (Minakami Hodaigi), the Haneda–Kagoshima–Yakushima flights Oct 12, Jonas' 07:50 departure Oct 21.
Where it splits: Oct 17. Fukuoka → Okayama is ~1 h 45. Hiroshima and Itsukushima are an optional detour on that line — leave Fukuoka around 13:00 and you still reach Okayama by 18:30. Same bed either way.
Where it splits again: Oct 19. Jonas goes Okayama → Tokyo, ~3 h 15, skipping Kansai; the rest go Okayama → Kyoto, ~1 h. It closes the next day — Kyoto → Tokyo is ~2 h 20, so all four sleep in Tokyo on the last night.
Watch: Yakushima weather (typhoon tail) can cancel the Oct 15 ferry; Oct 14 is the buffer. Naoshima museums shut Mondays and want advance tickets.